Travel to Romania

Day 7 Harman, Prejmer, Brașov, Bran, Bears at Zărneşti (108 Km.)

(in 28 Km.) Harman: The history of the fortified church of Harman is linked to the presence of the Order of the Teutonic Knights in the region in the early 13th century. The first documentation of the settlement dates from 1240. The interior is heterogeneous, with influences from different periods. The central nave was vaulted in 1595 after a fire. The choir, flanked by Cistercian chapels, has a sacristy that was converted in the 15th century. The church was transformed into Gothic style in the 15th century, and the bell tower rises as the tallest in the region. The fortification surrounding the church was built in the 15th century and consists of a triple system of concentric walls with advanced towers. The lower outer wall defended the base, while the high inner wall had seven towers. The fortification included a patrol path connected to all the towers. Also of note is a barbican in front of the entrance and a gatehouse built in the 17th century. The fortified church of Harman is known for its frescoes and wall paintings, most notably the Last Judgement theme in an east chapel.

(in 9 Km.) Prejmer: The fortified church of Prejmer, built around 1218 in Gothic style, was initially planned by knights who settled in the area with the permission of King Andrew II of Hungary. After the expulsion of the knights in 1225, the Cistercians took over and completed the church in 1240. It is notable for its Greek-cross plan, which is unique in Transylvania. The triptych altarpiece, dated around 1450, is the oldest in the province and depicts scenes from the Passion of Christ. A bell tower was added in 1461, and the shape of the Greek cross was modified between 1512 and 1515, adding two unequal aisles and enlarging the main nave. Because of its strategic position, Prejmer was heavily fortified in the 15th-16th centuries with thick walls, towers, moats and an underground tunnel connecting the church to the outside. The defences were built in response to Ottoman raids and other invaders. Visitors can explore the many rooms along the walls, climb stairs and walk through the corridors. In 1999, along with five other sites, Prejmer was added to Biertan on the list of villages with fortified churches in Transylvania, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

(in 18 Km.) Brașov: Brașov is a charming city located in the heart of Romania, in the Transylvania region. We start our tour at the Council Square (Piața Sfatului), a vibrant place surrounded by colourful historical buildings. In the centre of the square is a fountain and clock which are popular landmarks and a monument dedicated to Baron Samuel von Brukenthal, who was governor of Transylvania in the 18th century. A few metres away is the Black Church (Biserica Neagră), an impressive Gothic church that houses a valuable collection of tapestries and religious artefacts. The Black Church owes its name to the damage suffered in a fire in 1689, which blackened the exterior walls of the church and made them appear darker. Originally known as St. Mary's Church, construction began in the early 14th century and was completed in the 15th century. The interior of the Black Church is remarkable for its spaciousness and simplicity. The tall Gothic columns and vaults contribute to creating a majestic space. The church is over 89 metres long, making it one of the largest Gothic churches in southeastern Europe. Built in Germany in the 17th century, it has one of the largest and oldest organs in Europe.

We arrive at Porta Schei street. About halfway down the street we find the entrance to Strada Sforii, one of the narrowest streets in Europe. Strada Sforii Street is full of graffiti and is a popular place to take pictures. Above it you can see Mount Tampa. You can reach the top using the cable car or walk up via a footpath. At the top, you will find the famous letter "BRASOV" in large Hollywood-style letters and spectacular views over the city. At number 29 Porta Schei we see the "Beit Israel" Synagogue. Built between 1899 and 1901, it is neo-Gothic in style with Moorish elements. Its design incorporates symbolic Jewish elements, such as the Tablets of the Law on the ceiling. At the end of the street is the Schei Gate, an ancient entrance to the city that used to separate the Saxons from the Romanian inhabitants. On your right, just in front of Gheorghe Dima Park, is St. Catherine's Gate. Built in the 16th century, it is a relic of the old fortification of the city. It was part of Brașov's defensive system and served as one of the main entrances to the walled city. It is characterised by its semi-circular arch and twin towers flanking the entrance. The towers are topped with conical roofs.

Lunchtime arrives and it's 38 degrees Celsius. We discovered that the hidden Strada După Ziduri was in the shade and that the Chiu stream running through it added to the coolness of the atmosphere. From this street there are stairs leading up to the "Turnul Negru", which is actually called Turnul Negru al Cetății (The Black Tower of the Citadel). It is part of a group of medieval fortifications built around the old town of Brașov. It was built in the 15th century and served as a defence tower and observation post. From this point there is a fabulous view over the old town. A short distance away is "Turnul Alb" (White Tower), built between 1460 and 1494. Its design includes an open semicircular plan, with a height difference of more than 30 metres from the city walls. The tower is 20 metres high. Along its walls, the tower has crenellations, tarred openings and balconies supported by corbels carved in stone. We wanted to close our tour of the city with a visit to the Biserica Sfântul Nicolae (the Church of St. Nicholas), but as it was a bit far away, we left it for a future occasion. It dates back to the 13th century, although the present structure was mainly built in the 15th century. The façade of the church is remarkable for its typical Gothic-style architecture, with ornamental details and a high tower. Inside, the church features well-preserved frescoes and wall paintings.

(in 31 Km.) Bran castle: Bran Castle is also known as "Dracula's Castle". Although it is popularly associated with the fictional character of Bram Stoker's Count Dracula, there is no evidence that the author was inspired by this castle. Although Bran Castle has no direct historical connection with Vlad III, the historical character on which the Dracula myth is based, its image and location have contributed to the popularity of the place among tourists and fans of vampire folklore. It was built in 1377 by the Transylvanian Saxons to defend a strategic mountain position against Ottoman invasions. Over the centuries, it has served a variety of functions, from military fortress to royal residence. It is characterised by its medieval architecture, with towers and turrets, and is situated in a picturesque landscape, surrounded by forests and mountains. The structure consists of several halls and corridors that have been restored and opened to the public. The castle houses a museum that displays artefacts and furniture collected over the years, providing an insight into medieval life in Transylvania. We did not enjoy the visit due to the large number of people crowding the place. We spent the whole time queuing to enter the site and each of the rooms.

(in 9 Km.) Zărneşti: The final highlight of this intense day was bear watching. We hired a local guide in Zărnești who took us into the middle of the mountain to an observation hut. They are fed there every day, thanks to a government programme, to prevent the bears from going down to the inhabited areas to look for food. The guide explained to us that the same bears never come. Sometimes none come at all and the maximum number of bears that have come in one day is a dozen. We were lucky enough to see nine of them, three males and six females. We were able to see how the law of the strongest was applied. The strongest bear enjoyed the food, while the other bears had to wait. This meant that some of the females went without food. Romania is home to one of the largest brown bear populations in Europe. Some estimates put their numbers at between 6,000 and 7,000 in 2023. Adult males can reach weights of 300 kg or more, while females tend to be smaller. They have a thick, coarse coat that varies in colour from light brown to black, and may sometimes have lighter patches on the chest. The Carpathians provide a diverse habitat with an abundance of food resources, such as fruits, berries, insects, roots and occasionally larger prey.

(in 13 Km.) Râșnov: We return to our accommodation.