Travel to Romania

Day 3 Salina Turda, Cluj-Napoca, Wooden churches of Maramures (297 Km.)

(75 Km. away) Salina Turda: The Salina Turda (Turda salt mine) has been exploited since ancient times and without interruption between 1075 and 1932. It is assumed that the systematic exploitation of Turda salt began during the Roman occupation of Dacia. Today it is a tourist attraction, where mainly two of its two underground chambers are visited. The Rudolf Mine Chamber evokes the feeling of being inside an underground cathedral carved out of salt. Inside you will find attractions such as ping pong tables, miniature golf and the world's only underground Ferris wheel. At 42 metres deep, 50 metres wide and 80 metres long, the Rudolf Mine is the last place where salt was mined in Turda.

A little further down is the Terezia Mine, a conical mine. The extraction of salt in this type of room left behind underground rooms of impressive dimensions: 90 metres high and 87 metres in diameter. The depth from the mouth of the shafts to the base of the mine is 112 metres. Here there is an underground lake, with a depth of between 0.5 and 8 metres, where visitors can hire boats to navigate the calm waters. In the centre of the lake is an island formed by low-quality residual salt deposited here after 1880, when salt mining in this room ended. The Losif mine has a strong echo, which has led it to be called the "Hall of Echoes".

(34 Km. away) Cluj-Napoca: Cluj-Napoca, the historic capital of the Transylvania region, is today the capital of the Cluj County and the North-West Economic Region, and the second largest city in Romania in terms of population (324,576 in 2011). Cluj-Napoca has a history dating back to Roman times, and over the centuries has been influenced by various cultures, including Hungarian, Austrian and Romanian. This is reflected in its architecture and multicultural atmosphere. We spent just a couple of hours here, starting with its nerve centre: the Piața Unirii. The square is surrounded by impressive architectural buildings that reflect Cluj's rich history. Notable buildings include St. Michael's Cathedral, the Prefectural Palace and the Matthias Corvinus House.

St. Michael's Church (Biserica Sfântul Mihail) is a Catholic church in Gothic style. It is the second largest church (after the Black Church in Braşov) in Transylvania. The nave is 50 metres long and 24 metres wide. The tower, with a height of 76 metres (80 metres including the cross) is the tallest in Transylvania. The western portal is decorated with the three coats of arms of Sigismund as King of Hungary, King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor. Its construction was completed between 1442 and 1447 and the old tower was built between 1511-1545. The tower that stands today was built in 1862. Located in front of the cathedral is the equestrian statue of Matthias Corvinus (the Hungarian king born in this city), a representation symbolising his leadership and bravery.

We proceed along the commercial Eroilor Boulevard to Avram Iancu Square. The most prominent building on this square is the Orthodox Cathedral of the Assumption, but the square is also home to Gyula Wagner's eclectic Palace of Justice, the Lucian Blaga National Theatre and the County Prefecture. The cathedral has a maximum height of 64 metres and is built of reinforced concrete and brick, with stone quarried from the nearby towns of Baciu and Bampotoc on the exterior. The main dome of the cathedral is inspired by the dome of the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul which is surrounded by four smaller towers. We continue to Mihai Viteazul Square, dominated by the equestrian statue dedicated to Mihai Viteazul (Michael the Brave). Behind it is the Republic Cinema, a clear example of communist architecture. The square is surrounded by beautiful pastel-coloured houses. Finally, we end our visit to the city at the Monumentul Rezistenței Anticomuniste, a marble-covered cube dedicated to the victims of the anti-communist resistance.

The Maramures region, located in the north of the country, is dotted with traditional villages that seem to have stood the test of time. One of the highlights of Maramureș is its wooden architecture, which has been preserved for centuries. The wooden churches are especially famous, with their characteristic high towers and sloping roofs. Some of these churches are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, and the region is also known for its traditional crafts, including wood carving, pottery and textile making. Traditional costumes and folk music also play an important role in Maramureș's cultural identity. Despite modern developments, much of Maramureș still retains a rural lifestyle. Agriculture and animal husbandry are still important activities, and many people depend on them for their livelihoods. Because of its authenticity and beauty, Maramureș has become a popular tourist destination.

(105 Km. away) Rogoz: The first of the churches we visited was the Church of the Holy Archangels in Rogoz (Biserica de lemn Sf. Arhangheli), which is part of the Wooden Churches of Maramureş, recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site since 1999. Built in 1633, it is notable for its wooden architecture without the use of metal nails, a distinctive tower with spire and pinnacles, and a unique combination of Orthodox and Gothic influences in its design. The wooden walls rest on a base of stone blocks and pebbles. The wood is elm and, according to tradition, all of it came from two huge trees on the hill of Dealul Popii. In addition to the architectural details carved in wood, the church is decorated with brightly coloured murals created in 1785.

The wooden churches in the region were built between the 17th and 19th centuries, often replacing older churches. They were built because of the ban on stone Orthodox churches by the Austro-Hungarian Catholic authorities. Made of thick logs, some are small and dim inside, while others are of considerable size. Local painters painted 'naive' biblical scenes on the walls. Highlights include a tall tower at the entrance and a large roof that overshadows the main body of the church.

(38 Km. away) Plopiș: In the village of Plopiș, municipality of Șișești, we find the Church of the Archangels (Biserica de lemn "Sf. Arhangheli" din satul Plopiş). It was built by the Orthodox community of the village between 1798-1805, from assembled beams. With its modest dimensions: 17 m long, 7 m wide and 47 m high, the church of Plopiș is notable for its balanced proportions, which make it known as one of the most cohesive and unified religious buildings in Maramures. It is rectangular in plan, with a western portico and a polygonal altar apse. The exterior is richly decorated. The bell tower rises partly above the chancel and partly above the portico. Fragments of the paintings inside, dating from 1811, are preserved in the vault of the nave, where the image of the Holy Trinity, scenes from the Apocalypse and the Passion Cycle stand out.

(4 Km. away) Șurdești: The wooden church of Șurdești, dedicated to the Archangels Michael and Gabriel (Sfinții Arhangheli Mihail și Gavriil), was built in wood around 1721 by the Greek-Catholic community of the village of Șurdești, the church is recognised as an architectural achievement. The remarkable height of the spire, the harmonious proportions of the building and the interior painting give it the title of "Cathedral of the wooden churches". The impressive bell tower rises 54 metres, flanked at the corners by four turrets, extending outwards, with a structure of twelve pillars with carved arches. The roof has double eaves and the façade of the building has a balcony that overlaps the portico, creating a very elegant front image. The layout of the church is traditional: portico, pronaos, nave and polygonal altar apse. The mural painting, executed on wood, was made at the end of the 18th century. The influence of the Baroque style, evident in the iconostasis, is noticeable in both the sculpture and the painting. The wooden church of Șurdești is a synthesis of major Eastern and Western European architecture, a fusion of Byzantine antecedents and Gothic forms.

(27 Km. away) Budești: The wooden church of St. Nicholas (Biserica de lemn din Budești Josani "Sfântul Nicolae") was built in 1643 in the village of Budești Josani with wooden beams. The mural painting is dated 1762. At 18 m long, 8 m wide and with a 26 m high spire, it is considered the largest wooden church in Maramureș, with altar, nave and pronaos, above which rises the spire with four turrets (unique in historical Maramureș). The framed roof has double eaves. The fresh, harmonious and luminous interior painting, painted in 1762, is attributed to the painter Alexandru Ponehalschi. The church houses an impressive collection of valuable icons painted on wood dating from the 17th century. Some of them date back to the 17th-18th centuries, some even older, along with icons painted on glass. The icon of St. John the Baptist, painted around the 16th century, is considered particularly valuable.

(14 Km. away) Deseşti: After the hard day, we go to rest at Pensiunea Mara, a rural accommodation where the hostess made us feel at home. We have to highlight the dinner and breakfast she prepared for us, all homemade: the bread, the cheeses, the jam, etc. A highly recommended accommodation if you visit this area.